🕵️♂️The Inspection Insider
Know What Home Inspectors Look For—And Fix It First
Tips from a Certified Master Inspector to help you avoid surprises.
Don’t Lose a Deal to a Water Heater: Decode the Age in 10 Seconds
Shiny tank, no rust, quiet as a mouse… and 20 years old.
On walk-through it looked “newish.” Ten seconds with the label told a different story—and likely saved a midnight flood and a messy post-possession dispute.

The Problem
Water heaters can look fine right up to the day they burst.
Many insurers start getting twitchy around the 12–15 year mark, and buyers rarely budget for a surprise $1.5k–$3.5k replacement after closing.
For listing agents, missing this detail can turn into renegotiations, delay, or a lost deal.
How this Gets flagged
Find the data plate. It’s the sticker near the gas valve or on the side of the tank. Look for “MFG Date,” “Manufactured,” or “DOM.”
No printed date? Check the serial number.
Look it up on The Building Intelligence Centers website
Common patterns:
Rheem/Ruud: first 4 digits often MMYY (e.g., 0516 = May 2016).
A.O. Smith/State: often YYWW or YYMM early in the serial (e.g., 1320 = 2013, week 20).
Bradford White: letter codes for month and year (use the brand’s chart—don’t guess).
If in doubt, scan the QR/barcode or search the maker’s “serial number age” page.
Capacity & fuel type. Note size (40/50 gal), natural gas vs. electric, and location (basement vs. upper floor). Upstairs tanks without a pan/drain = bigger risk.
Safety items. TPR valve with a full-length discharge tube, proper venting/clearance, drip leg on gas line, dielectric unions on mixed metals, expansion tank where required.
The Fix of the Week
Age it in 10 seconds: Take a photo of the whole label. If there’s no clear “MFG Date,” zoom the serial and decode (or Look it up on The Building Intelligence Centers website).
Pre-list disclosure: If it’s >12 years (gas) or >10–12 years (typical ranges), set expectations in writing: “Functional today; aged component; replacement recommended soon.”
Proactive replacement math: $1.5k–$3.5k now vs. a flooded basement, deductible, delays, and a unnecessary bunch of headaches.
Risk reducers: Pan + drain line for above-grade or finished areas, expansion tank if required, and a properly routed TPR discharge tube.
Why It Matters
Underwriting friction: Older tanks can trigger conditions, higher premiums, or replacement demands at bind/renewal.
Renegotiation shield: Disclosing age up front keeps price changes from blindsiding anyone at the 11th hour.
Reputation: Being “the agent who catches the water heater age” is a small credibility win that compounds over a career.
Four Water Heater Tanks Cut Open - Lessons to Learn
🛠️ Pro Tip
Snap two photos during walkthroughs:
The full tank including the shutoff/venting area, and
A close-up of the data plate.
Drop both into the file. Future-you (and your client) will thank you when insurance or lawyers have questions.
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🔎 Coming Next Week…
The red flag hiding in plain sight. Learn the visual cheat codes for poly-B, how to document it in two photos, and how to turn a potential $12k–$20k headache into a proactive plan that keeps closing day on track!
Ron Henderson, CMI
Certified Master Inspector
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Questions? Comments? Drop me a line at: [email protected]
Disclaimer: Some details in these stories have been modified to protect the privacy of individuals involved. While the events are based on real experiences, names, locations, and certain specifics may have been altered.
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